Issue 13: Budapest

Dine at Rosenstein, a stalwart of Jewish-Hungarian cuisine, where matzah ball soup, chicken paprikash, and poppyseed cakes are treated with reverence

Step into the healing waters of the Gellért Thermal Baths, one of Buda's grandest art-nouveau buildings and a living piece of the city's ancient bathing culture

Meet Peter Pallai, a jazz critic and former radio producer who, as a child, was sheltered from the Nazis and later fought in the revolution against Hungary’s communist regime

Partake in “Lomtalanítás,” an annual tradition in which spring cleaning turns into a citywide treasure hunt